Absolute Beginner Tips for BB2. I pre-ordered BB2 yesterday having no previous experience in a Blood Bowl game, ever. I read the official guide linked in the in-game settings. I highly recommend anyone else new to the game like me to read that guide before playing your first game.

By TuernRedvenomLet’s get right down to business. The biggest misconception about the Khemri team is that you should have no interest in winning games and only in causing casualties to play them. This is entirely false; Khemri can top the league just like any other team while causing a boatload of casualties to boot.

Read on if you want to know how. Strengths:Khemri have one HUGE advantage: they can take 4 Mummies. And this is just about the only advantage they have. OK, they also have Regenerate for everyone and dirt cheap linemen, but these are only minor issues. Still, that one big advantage is all they need. Weaknesses:.

AG 2 or worse across the board makes any ball handling a serious risk. Speed: only 2 Blitz-ra’s with MA 6, the rest MA 5 and Mummies only MA 3. This makes positioning superimportant as just about every team can outmanoeuvre you without breaking a sweat. Expensive positionals: both Thro-Ra’s and Blitz-Ra’s seem overpriced when compared to similar players on other teams. Skeletons break easily: AV 7 lineman for a bashy team!These are some pretty harsh weaknesses but you can work around them and maximise your strengths. General guidelines:Some general stuff applies to both offense and defense. Skeletons and Mummies should work together as a tag team: every Mummy should be accompanied with at least one Skeleton untill opposing numbers have seriously dwindled.

Tag teams should also preferably work together setting up a chain of Mummies with Skeletons between them. This way if your opponent goes after your weak Skeletons he will face some Mummy retaliation. If your opponent tries to tie up your Mummy with cheap fodder like Zombies then the Skellie can make a block for the push on the Zombie to free up the Mummy so he can look up more worthwhile targets. Lastly it makes it very hard for your opponent to take out Mummies with players like Troll Slayers as nearby Skeletons will remove assists or give counter assists (thereby forcing him to commit multiple players). Finally, lone Mummies can be ganged up on and fouled: don’t let this happen in any case! Losing just one mummy early on will already hurt you a lot, losing 2 would be a disaster.

Skeletons should at all times be considered 100% expendable, go ahead, throw them against that nasty Big Guy you want tied up for a little while. Also don’t be afraid to lose a few to fouling, if you have a decent chance of breaking armour do it! Doesn’t matter if the eye is on your team, you’ll need to cut down their numbers if you want to achieve anything with Khemri. Most likely, with 4 Mummies on the pitch you’ll be filling up the opponent’s ko and injury boxes faster than the ref can fill yours with sent off players. Always try to set up 3 die blocks with your Mummies, your casualty rate not only depends on your armour and injury rolls but also on your knockdowns.

You just need 2 assists to get a 3-die block on a STR 3 player. This gets maximum efficiency out of every Mummy block, not to mention it also reduces your turnover rate (especially when your mummies haven’t picked up the block skill yet). All pushbacks made should be considered with care, against eg. Elves make pushbacks to places where they’ll have a tough time dodging out of. Against Dwarfs, try to push them away from each other to minimise their likely Guard advantage.

In general, all agility rolls besides picking up the ball must be avoided (one exception tough, I’ll get to it later on). With AG 2 max I don’t think this needs a lot of explaining. Most importantly: Khemri need the numbers advantage to win: any chance you get at taking an opponent off the field should not be overlooked! So consistent fouling is important. Clock ManagementLike it or not, clock management is part of the game and an essential part of the Khemri Playbook. Remember, as long as you hold the ball your opponent can’t score. So when you have the ball keep hold of it as long as you can: typically untill you score in turn 8.

Defense (‘Good offense wins fans, good defence wins championships.’):Basically there are two possible defensive strategies. First is forcing them to score as soon as possible. Yes, in the Khemri playbook conceding a quick TD is a defensive tactic. The theory is: let them score in the first two/three turns, receive the ball back and beat them up for the rest of the half, scoring in turn 8. Second half you receive again and score again in turn 8.

2-1, game won. Here again you can employ two different ways to entice your opponent to score. First is to surround a bunch of players with your bash crew, when your opponent sees that some of his best players are about to get the royal Mummy treatment (and if they survive that a boot to the head will surely follow) he will probably try to score asap. I usually make some comment like ‘Oh yeah, that Werewolf will be dog food soon!’ to convince any doubters. Second option is obvious: create a blitz threath on his ball carrier. Now here is where the exception on the “never dodge” rule applies. Many players will assume that putting a TZ on an AG 2 player will stop you from dodging away, and usually they’re right.

But if you have a shot at their ball carrier then make that 4+ dodge, if only for shock effect! (But be sure to bash with the Mummies first tough.) Even if you fail the dodge your opponent might think twice about stalling. In any case apply the pressure ‘till they crack.Second tactic is stopping their offence in its tracks and keeping the nil. Khemri are very, very good at stopping running plays. Especially tight cages can be grinded to a halt and smashed apart by your mummies with ease. Against running teams I put 3 Skeletons on the line and all 4 Mummies 2-3 squares back. Putting Mummies on the LoS risks getting them bogged down by fodder while the play is developing somewhere else.

Holding back at first gives you the possibilty to blitz right where you think your opponent will try to push through. Any attempt by your opponent to run a cage up the field should be stopped by simply putting as many tackle zones on the cage as possible, especially with Mummies, and overpower them. This works very well against low AG teams that can’t dodge out easily. Against high AG teams keeping a tight defence will prove to be a lot harder. They can dodge out and move the play to the other side of the field leaving your mummies twiddling their thumbs. Against teams that have no way to easily put down a Mummy (no Big guy or Dauntless) stacking the line of scrimmage might work, but if they do get through your line your backfield will be wide open.

I prefer to make a very strong wide zone defence and leave the centre deliberately vulnerable. If the opponent takes the bait and tries to make his move through the middle (often he has no choice but to do that) then the players in your wide zones can fold back centrally and try to surround their breakthrough (leave them no way of dodging out easily).

Added advantage now is that if your opponent does manage to redirect his drive towards the sidelines your players are positioned rather centrally and can probably still react to it. In general I always keep one Blitz-Ra as a deep safety, this discourages opponents to make a solo run with a quick player past your line into your backfield.OffenceMost important part of Khemri offence is having a decent ball carrier. Speed is especially important as you’ll need to get the ball out of your backfield and into your cage asap, and passing the ball isn’t an option. Therefore I prefer Blitz-Ra’s as ball carriers: they are the fastest players on the team, are harder to take down because of the block skill and harder to take out of the game because of the higher AV with regard to a Thro-Ra. Just make sure to give your Blitz-Ra sure hands as his first skill.

On offense your goal should be to get the ball in the cage asap and then up the field slowly while getting as many opposing players off the pitch as possible. First part is getting the ball safe.

Keep at least 3 players back, against fast, high AG teams preferably more. After kickoff immediately move 1 or two players next to the ball, if something goes wrong you’ll have tackle zones nearby making it harder for your opponent to steal the ball. Then do your bashing. Try to make it hard for your opponent to rush the ball. Finally try to pick up the ball.

Once you have it, keep it safe, this will most likely mean looking up the company of your mummies. Although a cage cornered by 4 Mummies is rarely necesarry, it is often worth making just to see the look on your opponent’s face. Never rush your offense, if all goes well and you keep fouling and hitting then by turn 7 there won’t be anyone left to stop you from running in an easy TD. Biggest enemy to a Khemrian drive is the Kick skill. Having the ball kicked way back while being swarmed by Blodging/Side Stepping Gutter Runners is tough to get out of.

So players with Kick should always be candidate #1 for a boot to the head. Luckily most teams only have one Kicker at most.Kick/ReceiveMost coaches choose to receive regardless of the team they are playing. After all it gives you the chance to draw first blood!

With Khemri however it often pays to kick first. Why, you might ask. Well, a few reasons really. Kickers; kicking first gives you a few turns to try to get rid of the opponent’s kicker permanently before you get to receive (if he’s not cowering in the reserves box that is). You might also be able to take out players that can rush your backfield when you receive. KO rolls.

If you choose to receive in the first half and if all goes according to plan you’ll score in turn 8. This means your opponent still has his 8th turn to play, meaning there will another kick-off and thus also another chance to roll for KO’s.

After his 8th turn first half ends and he gets another chance on his ko rolls. If you however kick and either make them score quickly (probably not yet too many KO’s by then) or manage to stop their drive completely they will only get 1 chance at half time to get KO’s back (even if you score back in turn 8 ). If your opponent does manage to score in turn 6-8 then you’re screwed of course. Surprise factor. Some people can’t understand the notion of kicking when you win the roll-off and might underestimate you or be confused.If I think I can outmuscle the opponent then I’ll always kick. Against other Khemri, Ogres, Lizardmen which can match you in a fist fight first blood might make the difference so I choose to receive. Player advancement:.

Mummy: maximise bashing skills, first skill block because you should be throwing lotsa blocks. Other good skills include Guard, Tackle and Break Tackle. Doubles either Stand Firm or Frenzy. Skeleton: Dirty Player is the most efficient skill to cause casualties, get a bunch of Dirty Players first, once you have at least 4 of them start investing in Block and Tackle. Doubles make an interesting choice: Guard is always usefull, Diving Tackle can be great when facing a lot of AG teams (just stick him next to a Guarding Mummy), Mighty Blow speeds up development and is particularly good when combined with Block and Tackle. Blitz-Ra: Sure Hands, Tackle, Mighty Blow, Break Tackle. Doubles: Stand Fim, Dodge, Sure Feet.

I usually develop one as ball carrier and one as heavy hitter. Thro-Ra: never use these guys so can’t really comment.NOTE: you’ll need a lot of tackle in your team when you come near 200 TR to compete with the agility teams. Starting roster:Always start with 4 Mummies. 4 Mummies is the definition of the team, take them from the start.

Also at least 3 Re-rolls are needed, 4 Blockless Mummies can cause a lot of turnovers. The rest doesn’t really matter all that much. About BBPBThe Blood Bowl PlayBook is the collection of the best strategies, tactics and tips for Blood Bowl.

Currently there are 83 tactics on the site.Every tactic includes a list of references. The copyright remains with its original owner.Playbooks(10)(1)(6)(4)(6)(5)(2)(5)(4)(5)(5)(2)(1)(1)(2)(1)(1)(5)(6)(6)(2)(3)New tacticsI'm constantly looking for new Blood Bowl tactics! If you have any tips or tricks for the greatest ball game in the world, or you have come across an interesting article on the web, don't be shy, drop me a line! Please mail me at with your opus or URL.Of course, the rights to the text and/or graphics will remain with their author.ImprintChristoph StuhrmannOberstrasse 1940878 RatingenGermanyRecommendationWhen sports agent slick Fullbelly spots down-at-heel adventurer Dunk Hoffnung bringing down his lunch with a slingshot from a hundred paces, he's sure that his search is over. Dunk puts down his sword and picks up a football.

This post is intended to be a fairly comprehensive overview of the main skills in blood bowl, and the way they synergize. Many experienced bloodbowl coaches will already be familiar with most of these; the post is primarily intended as advice for newer coaches. I originally wrote it on, but was honored to be asked by Mike to make it into my first post on thenaf.net!

=) In writing this, I assume you already know what each skill in the game does. If not, you can look them up.There are a few standard synergetic skills that you’ll often want to pick together:– Blodge(block + dodge).

The main way to keep your non-AV9 players alive, and a pretty good way of keeping some of your AV9 players alive too. This skill combination (together with AG4) is why elves are so good.

Just about any player with GA access will want to start with either this, or “wrodge” (wrestle + dodge), if you’d rather drag someone down with you than both stay upright. (generally, wrestle is better on the more agile and fast races, whereas block is better on the slower races. Also, block is better at lower TVs when you’re more likely to run into opponents who have neither block nor wrestle).– Blodge sure hands is one that any team wants on their main ball carrier (ideally a +AG variety of one of your highest AG/MA positional, or your thrower/runner). On a thrower it synergizes with pass/accurate, on an AG5 it synergizes with leap.– Blodge sidestep (“blodgestep”) diving tackle (+ tackle) is a staple defensive skillset for GA access guys (if your team has AV differences, give this to the higher AV).– (Claw)mighty blow piling on (“(claw)pomb”) tackle (jumpup) is the main killer skillset; you want to give this to (some) GS guys, or an elf lucky enough to roll two doubles.

At some point before tackle this guy will obviously also want block, but it could be at either 6, 16, 31, or 51(if claw) SPPs. I would recommend 6 or 16 SPPs for most players, but opinions vary widely. Don’t give claw before Mb to anyone (unless you need doubles for claw and can get Mb on normals),.– Wrestle tackle (“wrackle”) strip ball leap is a specialist skillset (the “sacker”) that all teams with GA access want one of, but it’s not something to spam (except maybe on slann, kind of).Each skill category has a couple of main skills:Mighty blow (+piling on) and guard are the staple S skills. You’ll want a lot of them on teams that have S access, and this is what you spend your doubles on for teams that don’t. Guard synergizes well with higher strength, with blodge, and with sidestep/stand firm (all because they’re harder to get rid of). This is why you’ll often find it on ST4 players, and why they consider dodge on doubles. Contrarily, it also synergizes well with high mobility (so that you can get it where you need it most), which is why it’s a great doubles pick for a catcher type, even with ST2 (human/wood elf catcher, gutter runner), on whom you’ll want blodge sidestep (to survive and keep/put your guard where needed).

Guard synergizes poorly with wrestle/piling on, because you need to be standing for it to work. It’s not nearly as bad with diving tackle, since its use often results in a turnover, meaning you will often only be prone between turns. Having a single (non-big guy) mighty blow to blitz with is crucial for any team. Mighty blow synergizes well with block, with tackle, and with frenzy, and of course with claw and piling on. Mighty blow, too, synergizes poorly with wrestle (did someone say Brets?), as it will not allow you to make an armor roll on a both down, which you do vs blockless guys if you have block. If you need doubles for S access, like elves, I like giving mighty blow for early doubles (as you mold them to the killer role by skilling tackle early, and you’ll have more chances remaining in which to roll piling on), while giving guard on later doubles (as you’ll probably already have blodge, maybe sidestep, which synergize well with it). However, if I have a blodge sidestep elf who rolls doubles and I don’t have any mighty blow yet, I will still give mighty blow, and focus on skilling him with tackle soon.

Piling on should never be taken before mighty blow. It synergizes well with jumpup, especially on AG3+ players (as they only need a 2+ roll to block from a prone position). This is why Slann blitzers are great later on.

Juggernaut is pretty sweet on a surfer, and OK on a blitzing big guy (whom you probably shouldn’t have hired in the first place).Block/wrestle are the main G skills (you’ll want either, not both). Almost anyone without G access wants to spend their doubles here. Almost anyone with G access takes one of these as his first or second skill.

Sure hands is also a core skill, but you really only need 1. Frenzy is more specialist but excellent in moderation (you’ll probably want either sidestep or stand firm on a frenzier, and it’s great with juggernaut). Tackle is one you’ll want on either markers or killers (as mentioned above), having one tackler is great from TV1000; having a few is a must from moderate to high TV. Lack of tackle is one of the main flaws of many new coaches’ chaos teams. Kick certainly deserves a mention here; it’s a good skill for any team, and a must-have for agile/fast teams (but only take one).

Kick-off-return is good for slower running types like dwarven runners or orc throwers. If getting the ball to your cage and to the endzone fast enough is a regular problem for your team, then KOR is probably a decent pick on your ball handler. Dirty player is great if you have cheap linemen with G access (and on cheap stunties who roll doubles as first skill); make sure to increase the number of players on the team as your number of dirty players increases. You want it on players that have no other skill, and you generally want to fire players who have dirty player and skill again.

Pro is a bit of an odd skill. It’s great on big guys (because they can’t use team RRs any better than a pro RR) but usually not before block.

It’s quite good on players who make rolls that you don’t get skill rerolls for, especially the ones you wouldn’t team reroll if they failed (negatraits like bonehead but also bloodlust), hypnotic gaze, jump up, dauntless. Vampires do especially well by it.

It’s pretty decent as a (very) late skill on a killer, to try and reroll pushes/both downs (and possibly jumpups), or on a surfer (to try and reroll pows into pushes). Be aware that this is still risky, as a pro reroll into a double skull can’t be rerolled with a team RR afterwards. Fend is a meh skill on most players. It goes pretty well with low AG (as it can save you having to dodge out), and is pretty decent at very high team value as it protects you from piling on (unless the piling on player has grab or juggernaut). It’s worth considering as a very late skill on amazing players (statfreak positionals) as it extends their lifespan. It’s also not bad on an annoying player like blodgestep diving tackle. It’s also decent on a ball carrier, but I wouldn’t give it to an AG4 (or AG3 two heads) one, since they can dodge out pretty well anyway.Dodge is the prime agility skill, with sidestep and diving tackle as other great picks.

Dodge is so good, that it is the only skill in the game for which there is a single counterskill. Think about it; the only thing tackle does is prevent the use of the dodge skill, and I just told you tackle was good, so dodge must great, right?

The second agility skill that is usually worth taking is sidestep. For killers (who take piling on), jumpup is a good skill as well. It also synergizes with diving tackle, piling on, or wrestle, since these make you go prone, but only as a very late skill pick (which is part of why slann blitzers go from a terrible player at 0 SPP to an absolutely amazing player at 51 SPP). Leap is a core sacker skill, and very very good on pretty much anyone with AG5 (unless they have stunty).

Diving tackle is a great defensive skill, especially when combined with blodgestep or high ST/AV. Sure feet is a skill that’s pretty decent on a lucky stunty (such as an AG4 or blodge sure hands skink), but not before sidestep.

In addition, several rewards such as emblems and nicknames can be acquired by completing challenges or, as mentioned previously, attacking the monsters whenever they appear. While the monsters can't be killed by the player, they can be delayed long enough from making landfall, allowing the player to pass the game mode. In this event, called the Ace Combat Infinity X Godzilla VS Collaboration Event, players take part in an online co-op mission called 'Tokyo Martial Law,' where (in addition to defending Tokyo from the enemy jets) they must attack Godzilla, Mechagodzilla, King Ghidorah, Biollante, or Mothra larva in order to prevent them from reaching Tokyo. To commemorate the release of Godzilla VS in Japan, Bandai Namco created a collaboration event for the game Ace Combat Infinity.

It’s not something I’d advise an a player with GA access, though. However, note that both sure feet and sprint go from mediocre skills to amazing skills on players with real one-turn-touchdown (OTTD) potential (usually a +MA variety of an MA8 positional, or a gutter runner, even worth considering on an MA 8 dark elf). Note that you don’t need MA10 + sprint to make a one-turn touchdown, a single (chain) push on your player means MA9 + sprint suffices, and that single push is almost always doable (more so if your OTTD guy has sidestep, or if his teammates have grab or juggernaut). In addition to +MA, sure feet, sprint, and sidestep, other good skills for a oneturner are catch, dodge, and leap.

Note that if you want to use your oneturner during normal (offensive or even defensive drives) instead of putting him on the bench for 15 out of every 16 turns, you will probably want to give him blodgestep first, and only then focus on sure feet and sprint. That way he’s a real player first, and a oneturner second.Passing skills are not something you want to focus your team on (which is why brets suck, pt 2). Leader is good on just about any team (it’s better if the player has P access, and better if your team RRs are more expensive (which is why Brets suck, pt 3)). Pass and accurate are decent on a (1!) dedicated thrower, but should only be taken after blodge sure hands.

Safe throw is OK after this, but I would probably prefer kick-off-return over it on most throwers.Claw is by far the most relevant mutation, unfortunately. A lot of mutations are potentially fun and interesting, and tentacles certainly deserve honorable mention for ST4+ players (it gets better with more ST; so it’s pretty good on ST4, great on ST5, and amazing on ST6). For gutter runners, two heads, horns (on a sacker), very long legs (on a leaper) are worth considering, but on most great coaches’ teams, you’ll find that claw is the main mutation chosen (especially for chaos & nurgle, but also on skaven/underworld stormvermin). Prehensile tail, it’s worth noting, is not very strong in isolation, but it stacks both with itself (if multiple tailed players have a TZ on the same guy), and with diving tackle. This means that with 2 tail and a dt you could turn an elf’s 2+ dodge into a 6+.

(Certainly not the best way to build a chaos team, but )Also worth mentioning are a few potentially temptingskills that you’ll pretty much always want to avoid: Nerves of steel, strong arm, sneaky git and pass block. You basically don’t want to take these skills on anyone.

Many people willl give nerves of steel to a catcher on doubles, or pass block on normals. You shouldn’t need the one, and your opponent shouldn’t let you use the other. A catcher is your most mobile player, and with guard (+ blodge sidestep), he’ll be much more valuable than with NoS. Strong arm is a tempting doubles for a thrower, but it is more expensive and flat-out worse than accurate.

It may be worth considering if your thrower already has a ton of skills (blodge sure hands, pass, and accurate), and there’s no really good picks left. Even then, I think you would be better off with leader, safe throw, leap, fend or kick-off return than with strong arm (if you get a kick out of throwing long bombs be my guest of course, but the issue is sensible team builds here). An exception is a TTM focused big guy on a stunty team; having one strong arm there isn’t bad. If you want to foul, you want dirty player. If your dirty player skills again, you’re better off replacing him than giving sneaky git. The only reason to take a git is if you needed doubles for dp (stunties), your dp unfortunately skilled again, and you don’t want to fire him yet.Stats deserve a separate mention: +ST is worth it on most players. Exceptions may include scrub linemen (human, skaven, brets), or players who lack G access (especially big guys (but not the tentacle ones) or mummies/tomb guardians, but also stunties, especially snotlings).

I’m still tempted to take it when even rolling it on them, though (I’ve taken it on a linerat and a goblin, but skipped it on a treeman). +AG is generally worth it on your highest AG & MA positional. Great on throwers, runners/catchers, really good on elf blitzers/witches, also worth it on human or dwarf blitzers. AG4 synergizes with dodge, AG5 synergizes with dodge and leap. AG is worth considering on line-elves if you have no AG5 yet, or if it falls late (after at least blodge/wrodge). On blockier teams, having one of them on your main ball carrier (beastman, orc blitzer or thrower, bull centaur, thro-ra, werewolf/ghoul etc.) is a huge asset.

Be careful not to get too many of them, though, especially on teams that have good skill access, and thus have many excellent picks on normal skills. For example, a chaos team with 4x +AG can be fun, but it’s nowhere near as competitive as a chaos team with 1 +AG and 6 more well-picked normal skills (which would have the same team value). +MA is usually worth it on your fastest positional, (especially amazing if it brings your MA to 9 or 10, for oneturning) and it’s rarely worth it on linemen (wood elves who roll it late might be an exception). On elves with MA7, I’d usually pick doubles on a 5+5 over MA, though. +AV is rarely worth it on anyone.

Exceptions might be the target AV8 big guys rat ogre & minotaur (but never on a 5+5 roll), or late in the development of a killer positional (especially against fouls after piling on).Sources: For choosing skillups and starting rosters, I find to be quite useful. It has skill picks per positional for every race (including which stats to take and which to skip). I don’t agree with nearly all of it, but it’s a good start for a new coach who’s swamped in the many skilling options (although this thread should help with that a lot already).Other great resources for learning the game:youtube: my andpdf:site:pdf:(disclaimer: some are certain to disagree with some of the above.

It’s only my opinion, but I’d like to think I’m pretty good at the game, and most of this opinion I have developed from that distilled bloodbowl wisdom that is the fumbbl hive-mind).